Went home for a weekend bouldering on the grit with Dafydd, got home friday afternoon and was planning on a headtorch session at Cratcliffe... Was really looking forward to it as i want to do the classic campus problem Jerry's Traverse Font7b, and a Font7a+ link up next to Razor Roof. I had been feeling a bit ill all day and had to concede that it wasn't a good idea to go out... Gutted! I went to bed to try and recover for tomorrow... (Difficult considering this was the weekend the boiler finally died - not heating or hot water! )
Failed. Still bloody ill! I decided to go out climbing anyway, I didn't want to bore Daff (or me!) by sitting around indoors all weekend... We went to meet Tim at the Roaches and decided that the spring boulders looked good (this turned out to be a bad idea as we took the dog and it was muddy!). The Roaches must have been one of the best crags to be at in the peaks on saturday! there was an inversion in the valley, which we were not far above and the conditions were perfect for some friction climbing. I had my eye on C3PO Font7a, a balancy and technical pebble pulling slab, supposedly one of the best slabs in the peaks. Took a while! This was the only route I did saturday! Found it very hard for the grade, looking on UKClimbing afterwards it gets V7 (=Font7a+) and gets a English tech grade of 6c, which i think is my first on rock :) time well spent. Got some cool photos of Daff and the sunset too. Home for curry :)
Sunday - feeling a bit better! So got a reasonably early start up to Stanage. With a stop in Outside of course! Bought some Moon Cypher trousers (£50!!! "it's an xmas present to myself" :)). First route of the day was Rotor Font6c onsight :) Then moved over to Spur Slab area, retroflashed the reasonably nice Spur Traverse Font6c+, and did Right Spur Font6c 2nd go :) Went to show Daff Satin Font7a - which is easily the most brilliant slab route i've ever done, he got some cool photos but didn't have a lot of skin left at this point :( I had one go on Pressure Drop Font7c which is a similar problem just left of Satin. It looks brilliant and I would love to spend more time on it this winter! Home for roast dinner! :)
Brilliant weekend :)
Matt
Monday, 1 December 2008
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