We now have a great short demo video of my ascent of Camel Hot E6 6b kindly created by Sam Dixon:
http://sam-dixon.magix.net (currently the second video)
The tuesday after i did Camel Hot i went up to black rocks again to finish off Velvet Silence E6 6c, a fantastic slab / arete route with no gear and much faith in friction! I cleaned the line which was pretty green, but it came into good condition pretty quickly and after 3-4 top ropes (plus 2 previous sunday) i soloed it above 1 small and 2 regular pads. 2 E6 personal bests in 3 days, with little practise! Very happy!!
Unfortunately i returned to uni and exams the next week, so more revision and less climbing to be done! Now had the 2 exams for this small period and will be heading to Churnet for some bouldering sometime this weekend!
Matt
Thursday, 23 April 2009
Monday, 13 April 2009
Update...
Been a while! (forgot... oops!)
Where to start?
I'll try to remember the highlights since xmas...
Lead Fun Traverse, E4 6b, just before xmas day - great route - good moves, fantastic line and well protected!
Boxing day, new bouldering mat in hand, went to black rocks and did the 2nd ascent of King Edward, Font7c, new personal best!! Which is a really cool 1-move-wonder from 2 sloping crimpy sidepulls and a heel-smear to a sloping pod, then easyish top out. Good problem! Repeated for the camera haha!
I also soloed Golden Days E2/3 6a/b (previously lead) 1st go :)
Next day, went to Black Rocks again and met Ned Frehally, british bouldering champion and tried Jumping On A Beetle, E7 6c, and The Angel's Share, E8 7a ground up above 11 pads! Ned got Jumping On A Beetle, but no-one got The Angel's Share. I was pretty pleased though, got the 6c mantle into the gutter 1st go (after floundering spectacularly a year or so ago!) and every(?) go afterwards! Also got fully established on the slab regularly but never managed to stick the 3rd smear...
Late January i day a wicked bouldering trip to Stoney - Minus 10 wall, training grounds of the likes of Moffat, Moon and Fry!! ;) Repeated Lucian's Undercut, Font7a, flashed the inspirationally named Problem 4, Font7a+, as well as doing Megatron, also Font7a+. Then i did Zippy's Problem, Seans Problem both Font7b+ and two eliminates on Zippy's Problem which are given Font7c and Font7c+ - new personal best!!
Middle of March brings the start of my nice 5 week easter holiday! But more importantly a trip to Mallorca with about 60 of the climbing club! Highlights - Glasnost F7b with a dyno off a mono! Stuff the 3 points of contact rule!! Bobo Dodo F7b+ 1st redpoint. It used to get F7c and is harder for the short :) Finally... Football Fan F8a!!!!! 'The best hard route on the island', tufa pulling leads to a no-hands rest on a knee bar or foot-jam, followed by a few more tufas and then small crimps to the top, with the crux being a dynamic lurch for an edge from crimps! Dogged up twice (not used to remembering so much sequence - 30m route!!) then got it 4th redpoint :) Alex got his 1st F8b, French Kiss, also on 4th redpoint - and getting past the crux of Football Fan on his flash attempt!
Back in sunny Britain, tried Ruby Fruit Jungle F8a but the holds were so small that i twinged a tendon in my left hand - no crimps or jugs for a while...
Thankfully, Peaks = Grit = Slopers! So went and did King Edward for the 3rd time. Also lead, placing gear on lead, Pseudonym E5 6b at Black Rocks, a very bold route where falling from the reachy moves on slopers and tiny footholds would most likely put you on the ground 10m below... New personal best-ish, last E5 was 5c/6a :)
Yesterday i had another great day at Black Rocks. Headpointed, placing gear on lead, Camel Hot, E6 6b - new personal best! A stunning route with great moves, position and line up a hanging arete. Also top roped Velvet Silence, E6 6c, in just a couple of tries! Will be going back to try and boulder / solo that tomorrow night, if i can get hold of another pad! I started a ground up project Discombobulator, E5 6c, which i took a couple of whippers off, but is safe and utterly desperate! I'm blaming the warmer weather... ;)
Matt
Where to start?
I'll try to remember the highlights since xmas...
Lead Fun Traverse, E4 6b, just before xmas day - great route - good moves, fantastic line and well protected!
Boxing day, new bouldering mat in hand, went to black rocks and did the 2nd ascent of King Edward, Font7c, new personal best!! Which is a really cool 1-move-wonder from 2 sloping crimpy sidepulls and a heel-smear to a sloping pod, then easyish top out. Good problem! Repeated for the camera haha!
I also soloed Golden Days E2/3 6a/b (previously lead) 1st go :)
Next day, went to Black Rocks again and met Ned Frehally, british bouldering champion and tried Jumping On A Beetle, E7 6c, and The Angel's Share, E8 7a ground up above 11 pads! Ned got Jumping On A Beetle, but no-one got The Angel's Share. I was pretty pleased though, got the 6c mantle into the gutter 1st go (after floundering spectacularly a year or so ago!) and every(?) go afterwards! Also got fully established on the slab regularly but never managed to stick the 3rd smear...
Late January i day a wicked bouldering trip to Stoney - Minus 10 wall, training grounds of the likes of Moffat, Moon and Fry!! ;) Repeated Lucian's Undercut, Font7a, flashed the inspirationally named Problem 4, Font7a+, as well as doing Megatron, also Font7a+. Then i did Zippy's Problem, Seans Problem both Font7b+ and two eliminates on Zippy's Problem which are given Font7c and Font7c+ - new personal best!!
Middle of March brings the start of my nice 5 week easter holiday! But more importantly a trip to Mallorca with about 60 of the climbing club! Highlights - Glasnost F7b with a dyno off a mono! Stuff the 3 points of contact rule!! Bobo Dodo F7b+ 1st redpoint. It used to get F7c and is harder for the short :) Finally... Football Fan F8a!!!!! 'The best hard route on the island', tufa pulling leads to a no-hands rest on a knee bar or foot-jam, followed by a few more tufas and then small crimps to the top, with the crux being a dynamic lurch for an edge from crimps! Dogged up twice (not used to remembering so much sequence - 30m route!!) then got it 4th redpoint :) Alex got his 1st F8b, French Kiss, also on 4th redpoint - and getting past the crux of Football Fan on his flash attempt!
Back in sunny Britain, tried Ruby Fruit Jungle F8a but the holds were so small that i twinged a tendon in my left hand - no crimps or jugs for a while...
Thankfully, Peaks = Grit = Slopers! So went and did King Edward for the 3rd time. Also lead, placing gear on lead, Pseudonym E5 6b at Black Rocks, a very bold route where falling from the reachy moves on slopers and tiny footholds would most likely put you on the ground 10m below... New personal best-ish, last E5 was 5c/6a :)
Yesterday i had another great day at Black Rocks. Headpointed, placing gear on lead, Camel Hot, E6 6b - new personal best! A stunning route with great moves, position and line up a hanging arete. Also top roped Velvet Silence, E6 6c, in just a couple of tries! Will be going back to try and boulder / solo that tomorrow night, if i can get hold of another pad! I started a ground up project Discombobulator, E5 6c, which i took a couple of whippers off, but is safe and utterly desperate! I'm blaming the warmer weather... ;)
Matt
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