Unfortunately the weather decided that no-one would be bouldering at Burbage on sunday :( So we decided to head to the sanctuary of Wrights Rock - again!
Not as good as the Saturday, the conditions were a bit rubbish (ie, windy + dry + popular = dust storm!) and one or two routes and landings were soggy...
Demonstrated my sequence of Simple Simon to a keen Jen and Jonny, then (tried to!!) show them 'Problem 9'.
My main aim for the trip was to do 'Wrights Unconquerable' Font7a+, a desperate and powerful roof crack - not my style!! Spent about 30-40 minutes trying the moves and managed all but the last dyno around the lip... I reckon i need to spend more time training on steep powerful boulder problems.
Can't wait for next weekend - going home with Dafydd for a couple of days on on the grit with short(er!) journey times, good food and comfort! Also need some better trousers for winter bouldering so a trip to Hathersage is needed :) Fingers crossed for good weather!
Matt
Monday, 24 November 2008
Saturday, 22 November 2008
Churnet Valley Bouldering
Had a brilliant session at Churnet today bouldering at Wrights Rock!
It was freezing cold and friction was good. Unfortunately it was a bit too cold to try the Font7b utra-classic traverse i want to do! so settled for the brilliant upwards (well... outwards) climbing it has to offer!
I had a attempt at warming up on a Font4+ and Font6a+ which had lost a hold (6b?) but couldn't keep warm so settled for crazy starjumps - which are well under-rated!
Then i started working the really nice 'problem 9' Font7a which uses 2 poorish diagonal crimps to get the sloping break. I got some great beta for a toe hook - egyptian which was a brilliant move and meant i got it within about 10 minutes.
Cake time :)
Managed to do the good 'The Undercut' Font7a in about the same time as 'problem 9' with some high footwork.
Then had a bit of a rest to regain warmth and feeling and started working another crag-classic 'Simple Simon' Font7b. Brilliant problem where everyone uses a different sequence - mine consisted of a jump for the left side of a huge jug and place a right heel on a bump on the right side of the jug. Left foot flags. Pull up to a sloping crimp with left and then a slightly better and higher one with right hand. Another move up with left hand to a poor diagonal crimp, then change right heel for toe with left foot still flagging! Rockover to a better sloping pocket and put left toe on the starting jug. Using a pinch intermediate for the left had, pull up for the good break and match it.
First Font7b! Then repeat for the camera ;)
The extension looks like a fantastic bold pebble pulling wall, at E4 6c... another trip needed!
Also spent some time playing on the eliminate 'No Crack' Font7b+ and 'Sam Tan' Font7b+... Another day ;)
Fantastic day!
Burbage West tomorrow :) Bring on West Side Story!
Matt
It was freezing cold and friction was good. Unfortunately it was a bit too cold to try the Font7b utra-classic traverse i want to do! so settled for the brilliant upwards (well... outwards) climbing it has to offer!
I had a attempt at warming up on a Font4+ and Font6a+ which had lost a hold (6b?) but couldn't keep warm so settled for crazy starjumps - which are well under-rated!
Then i started working the really nice 'problem 9' Font7a which uses 2 poorish diagonal crimps to get the sloping break. I got some great beta for a toe hook - egyptian which was a brilliant move and meant i got it within about 10 minutes.
Cake time :)
Managed to do the good 'The Undercut' Font7a in about the same time as 'problem 9' with some high footwork.
Then had a bit of a rest to regain warmth and feeling and started working another crag-classic 'Simple Simon' Font7b. Brilliant problem where everyone uses a different sequence - mine consisted of a jump for the left side of a huge jug and place a right heel on a bump on the right side of the jug. Left foot flags. Pull up to a sloping crimp with left and then a slightly better and higher one with right hand. Another move up with left hand to a poor diagonal crimp, then change right heel for toe with left foot still flagging! Rockover to a better sloping pocket and put left toe on the starting jug. Using a pinch intermediate for the left had, pull up for the good break and match it.
First Font7b! Then repeat for the camera ;)
The extension looks like a fantastic bold pebble pulling wall, at E4 6c... another trip needed!
Also spent some time playing on the eliminate 'No Crack' Font7b+ and 'Sam Tan' Font7b+... Another day ;)
Fantastic day!
Burbage West tomorrow :) Bring on West Side Story!
Matt
Welcome!
Me and Jen have set up this blog to record the mad things we will do throughout our university lives and beyond!
I would imagine that these would revolve mainly around climbing!
A bit about me:
I have been climbing for about 7 years, and 'seriously' for about 4-5. I'm SPA trained and working at Bear Rock climbing wall to gain experience working with groups of climbers for my SPA qualification (and the money does no harm :)).
Currently my climbing personal bests are:
Onsight: E4 6a lead
E3 6b solo
F7a+
Font 6c
F7b (indoors)
Font 7a+ (indoors)
Working: E3 6a (need to start headpointing!!)
E3 5c ( '' )
F7b+
Font 7b
F7c+ (indoors)
Font 7b+/c (indoors)
I'm studying MMath at Warwick Uni, which is great fun! Though i do find work sometimes gets in the way of uni!
I would imagine that these would revolve mainly around climbing!
A bit about me:
I have been climbing for about 7 years, and 'seriously' for about 4-5. I'm SPA trained and working at Bear Rock climbing wall to gain experience working with groups of climbers for my SPA qualification (and the money does no harm :)).
Currently my climbing personal bests are:
Onsight: E4 6a lead
E3 6b solo
F7a+
Font 6c
F7b (indoors)
Font 7a+ (indoors)
Working: E3 6a (need to start headpointing!!)
E3 5c ( '' )
F7b+
Font 7b
F7c+ (indoors)
Font 7b+/c (indoors)
I'm studying MMath at Warwick Uni, which is great fun! Though i do find work sometimes gets in the way of uni!
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