Projects!

On tuesday, i headed up to Shining Cliff again and threw a rope down Gecko Blaster E7 6c. The route follows a right to left traverse before going over a small overlap (crux) then a balancy but not too difficult wall above. There is a boulder problem direct start Moo Cow Font7a+, but the start and route have not yet been linked.
I've almost done all the moves on the route. I have a sequence for the crux, but hurt my ankle just after i worked it out, so had to call it a day. I had a good look at gear - it's SHITE!! The only pro is a small cam in the (brittle) overlap, but i can only get half the cam in... :(

Wednesday (rest day), I went to Black Rocks to check out the gear on Fun Traverse E4/5 6b. It's fairly well protected :) but with an exciting swing - helmet! Cleaned it up a bit, although it wasn't in bad condition. Hope to lead it on sunday!

Thursday, i visited Shining Cliff again. There was a line which had looked interesting for a while, Brian E2 5b, so decided to try and solo it. The first part is straightforward, then there is a long reach for the top with feet on smears! Bugger... Downclimbed halfway and ticked the best smears i could see. Try again. Committing! And it looks a lot higher from up here than it did from the floor!! Downclimbed once more. "If that was well protected you'd piss it!! Get a grip!". One more go... Fingertips curl over the top - it's a jug!! :) Quick mantle and its over, with a stressed dog to greet me! Onsight solo :) Warm up?! Looking at this route later on the internet, description: "For the tall only!" Haha, i should do more research...
Then went to try Moo Cow. Hard!! After about 30 mins work i managed to get off the ground... After an hour i could get off the ground and go for the next hold, but couldn't hold it... Might not try the link up after all... Certainly going to try and get Gecko Blaster, at least on a top rope.

Today, rest day - my tips need some recovery time!!

Matt