Had a brilliant session at Churnet today bouldering at Wrights Rock!
It was freezing cold and friction was good. Unfortunately it was a bit too cold to try the Font7b utra-classic traverse i want to do! so settled for the brilliant upwards (well... outwards) climbing it has to offer!
I had a attempt at warming up on a Font4+ and Font6a+ which had lost a hold (6b?) but couldn't keep warm so settled for crazy starjumps - which are well under-rated!
Then i started working the really nice 'problem 9' Font7a which uses 2 poorish diagonal crimps to get the sloping break. I got some great beta for a toe hook - egyptian which was a brilliant move and meant i got it within about 10 minutes.
Cake time :)
Managed to do the good 'The Undercut' Font7a in about the same time as 'problem 9' with some high footwork.
Then had a bit of a rest to regain warmth and feeling and started working another crag-classic 'Simple Simon' Font7b. Brilliant problem where everyone uses a different sequence - mine consisted of a jump for the left side of a huge jug and place a right heel on a bump on the right side of the jug. Left foot flags. Pull up to a sloping crimp with left and then a slightly better and higher one with right hand. Another move up with left hand to a poor diagonal crimp, then change right heel for toe with left foot still flagging! Rockover to a better sloping pocket and put left toe on the starting jug. Using a pinch intermediate for the left had, pull up for the good break and match it.
First Font7b! Then repeat for the camera ;)
The extension looks like a fantastic bold pebble pulling wall, at E4 6c... another trip needed!
Also spent some time playing on the eliminate 'No Crack' Font7b+ and 'Sam Tan' Font7b+... Another day ;)
Fantastic day!
Burbage West tomorrow :) Bring on West Side Story!
Matt
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